Warning: When you take off your throttle body, be sure not to twist the body around the throttle cable or let it hang somewhere by the throttle cable, otherwise when you put the TB back on, the throttle cable will be tight and your idle will be quite high.

This is for people with rough or erratic idling, also for most people having issues with stalling, it also wouldn't hurt to spray down all electrical connectors while doing all of this work.


LOCATIONS

LOCATION IS UNDER THROTTLE BODY

BEFORE BEGINNING, DISCONNECT AND REMOVE BATTERY, ALSO REMOVE ENGINE COVER, AND ALSO REMOVE WHICH EVER INTAKE YOU HAVE


TO REMOVE MAF YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF 2 PHILLIPS SCREWS AND DISCONNECT THE CONNECTOR


THESE TWO WHITE ELECTRODES ARE WHAT MAKE YOUR BREAK YOUR MAF, SO BE CAREFUL


DISCONNECTING THE PVC, USE A LONG SOCKET, UNLIKE ME


JUST SHOWING YOU HOW TO CLEAN, SPRAY BOTH SIDES WHILE JIGGLING IT SIDE TO SIDE, SHOULD SOUND LIKE A SPRAY CAN, BUT NOT AS CLANKITY, BLOW INTO IT AND AIR SHOULD ONLY FLOW IN ONE DIRECTION


RADIATOR LINES GOING INTO IACV


DISCONNECT RADIATOR LINES AND PROP THEM UP SO YOU DONT LEAK FLUID

REMOVE THROTTLE BODY, ONLY HAS 4 BOLTS, FORGOT TO TAKE PIC

i'll have to take another look, but i thought the iacv screws were a 5-point design? in any case, they will be a b**** to remove.

REMOVING IACV FROM TB, SCREWS ARE SOFT SO USE SCREWDRIVER THAT FITS THE SNUGGEST, THEN BANG THE END OF THE SCREWDRIVER SO IT LOOSENS THE SCREWS AND CAUSES THE SCREWDRIVER TO FIT BETTER


HARD TO GET ADAPTER FOR THESE SO USE CHANNEL LOCKS, VICE GRIPS OR A TRUSTEE GERBER AND TWIST THE SIDES TO GET THEM OFF


AFTER THOSE COME OFF YOU CAN SEPERATE THE TWO PIECES EXPOSING THE END OF THE SHAFT


THIS IS THE PART OF THE SHAFT YOU WILL SPIN WHILE CLEANING


WHEN YOU FIRST SPIN, ITLL IMMEDIATELY STOP,NOW HOLD THE CHANNELS TOWARDS THE GROUND WHILE SPRAYING UPWARDS AND SPINNING THE SHAFT, YOU WILL IMMEDIATELY NOTICE YOU CAN SPIN AND ITLL ROTATE ON ITS OWN SEVERAL TIMES


USE QTIPS FOR THOSE HARD TO REACH PLACES, DONT GET A CHUNK OF COTTON LOOSE IN HERE


CHANNELS ON TB, CLEAN WITH THE SPRAY AND QTIPS


TB AND CHANNELS AFTER ITS CLEANED

Now just install the two IACV pieces back together, reattach the IACV to the throttle body, reattach the PCV and the MAF in their respective places, then reattach the throttle body to the intake manifold and reconnect the two radiator lines to the IACV.

props to whoever it was who did the original MAF cleaning guide and to reggaetrix for letting me know about the IACV

Is the IACV the same thing as the TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor)? Also, what is the other sensor on the Throttle body? I've been having a little bit of rough idling and some hesitation and I want to do this. Thanks.

that would be mistamatrix.

So what advantage does this have besides being shiney and clean?

Any chance we can get a size on that screw / nut for the Idle Air Control Valve?

Thanks in Advance....

No, its a 6 sided spline key, never have been able to find an adapter for it, just use pliers and attach them to the side of the heads and twist and theyll come off.

The advantage is a much much smoother engine and especially idle, I have no vibrations at all, plus cleaning your MAF at least feels like you have more power, dont know if it actually does.

What happens is that CAI's do not filter as well and the IACV gets clogged real easier and there are a lot of people whos trix' are starting to stall and this will fix it.

Cant tell from the picture if it is 6 sided or not but mabey a torx bit? i know the MAF has torx bit screw heads...

well I know for every year and model of matrix, there are actually 4 sub-versions, cause you have canadian,50-state legal,49-state legal and 48-state legal versions of matrixs. There are actually 3 different IACVs for example, so their screws might be different, I have regular phillips on my MAF, but I guess everyones will be different

Also some of the IACV in your cars are gonna be piston style instead of a rotating type, but I figure you could clean it just as well once you take it apart too.

actually, looking at that pic now, it is a spline key, so it should only have 5 grooves, not 6. but then again, everyone might have something different

cool man ill give it a look in the morning... good article btw.

The MAF on mine uses regular Phillips.

thanks for this "How-to" Joe. - Got me a project to do on my next day off.

awesome, exactly what I wanted to know, lol thx!

I do get alot of vibration during idle..maybe i should try this out.

well if any of you do all this, let me know how it went

Same here... but the 6 sided spline screw shown in that pic is a torx screw.

Vin

according to this pdf
of the Throttle body parts, there is a metal gasket that is nonreuasable. did u get a new gasket or did u just put the one in that you already had...

No, I reused it, I have no idea why they say that, its metal. I have done two cleanings with 4 months in between and I didn't see any excessive crud or dirt on the second cleaning to make me feel as though it can't hold up being reused

nice, now i have to do this, mine have to be cloged and more if I have a CAI taking all that dirt from the ground... tnx!!

"A PCV valve should never be cleaned and placed back into service. Cleaning a
PCV valve will result in a clean PCV valve; not a new PCV valve. There are
contaminants that will remain in the PCV valve that can never be flushed out.
Additionally, there is an amount of wear that will be experienced by the spring
that cleaning cannot replace."

http://64.233.169.104/search?q=cache:s3phm...lient=firefox-a


Oh one question, for the IACV/Throttle Body - when re-attaching them, are you using non-permanant threadlocker or is it no big deal? The screws you remove without a bit, using the pliers, I have to wonder if they're getting torqued on too loosely when you twist them back on with only pliers...

I have both non-chlorinated brake cleaner and electrical contact cleaner, is one or the other better for each application? Should I use electrical cleaner on the MAF and brake cleaner on the TB/IACV?

Electrical cleaner on sensitive things like the MAF, and the main rotating mechanism of the IACV. everything else can use brake cleaner, believe me, brake cleaner will clean out anything, including a pcv.

I followed the insturction guide to clean out the IAC value but somehow my car is ideling way higher than normal, around 3-4000 rpm. Did anyone have this kind of problem with the ideling?

any comments would be appreciated

thanks

Did you ever resolve your issue?

I may attempt this seeing as it seems to take out the screws easily w/ pliers. I've messed w/ my intake mani. enough times to figure out why i haven't actually done this yet.

i also found when cleaning out ur iacv that you could leave the throttle on disconnect the radiator lines and sensor (to get to theat spining shaft) spray in one side of the iacv while spinning the shaft and it cleans it pretty well. that method would be used if ur lazy like me and don't take ur throttle body off to clean everything off.

I just did this fri. since i took off my intake mani. to clean and repaint. Along w/ the TB, iacv and throttle cable bracket. It took a little extra effort to get the 3 bolts off. You have to use the right sized phillips then hit the top of it w/ a hammer to kinda break the theads loose then just add your weight and turn. It was pretty damn dirty though but now it's all clean.

here is my PCV after 70k miles

mine is still idling high since may. It's not the cable, i don't have any leaks, the rotor isn't sticking so i'm now outta ideas.

I just finished doing this to may car -- lets see if it helps my P0301. I ended up chewing the snot out of the screws holding the IACV to the throttle body, and then using an extractor kit to get the stupid actuator off of the IACV itself.

I went to crappy tire and replaced all of them with much higher quality screws that won't get chewed out next time I remove them.

been there done that.

replaced em again with full stainless ones.

then when they stripped out the next time i replaced them all with full stainless socket head cap screws.

allen wrenches in screws that dont rust FTMFW!!!1!

Yea, I went with stainless. $.65 at Crappy Tire ftmfw.

I seem to remember you doing a how to on placing a oil-catch can in the trix. did you take that pic before or after. for 70K, thats hideous. i have 90K, and it has a light brown stain with no gunk build up. i always attributed that to the synthetic oil though.

finally got around to cleaning the TB, IACV and even the intake manifold.



^ tries the pliers but no luck. With assistance from XpertSnowCarver, we dremeld a straight line through the screw so a flat head screwdriver can fit in and remove it.

It actually worked quite well.

Suggestion to those who clean the IACV, you might to lubricate the top portion with the magnetic piece with some liquid silicone.

Even after I cleaned the mechanism inside, it did rotate freely for while. But it stopped, turns out some sort of lubrication is needed to keep it spinning freely.

Once installed, the idle was so smooth and quiet.

Lastly don't forget to reinstall every single hose that was removed (not including the coolant bypass mod) as I forgot one hose - the one behind the TB towards the drivers side and was wondering I got a CEL and a very rough idle.

when you remove bolts on IACV, it is wise to use hex type bolts and just throw away old ones. It can save you a lot of time and frustration later on.

So for the IACV screws...there is an allen key that fits that screw?...I damn nearly shave that thing using pliers...not going to attempt it again with pliers...

I believe it's a Torx Screw, I don't remember if it's either a T-15 or a T-20.... But a Stripped torx screw can be removed with an Allen Key, but it has to be stripped first.

Hi.

Thanks for great HOWTO. Just did this with my matrix'05. Considering that I've been holding wrench in my hands for the first time it wasn't that difficult.
I've got one question though. It seems that TB in my car has different design: IACV is just built into it and it doesn't seem possible to separate them.
The car has quite rough idle, at least it had it before I clean everything else.
So, is there any chance to clean IACV, or there is no need to do this?

Thanks in advance.

05+ 1zz fwd do not have an IACV.

Is it best to clean the TB of an 05 1zz with the TB attached or is it easy enough to take it off? I noticed the coolant bypass hoses are positioned differently as well on the 05.

Is it best to clean the TB of an 05 1zz with the TB attached or is it easy enough to take it off? I noticed the coolant bypass hoses are positioned differently as well on the 05.