Toyota Matrix Owners Forum

I originally posted this on TheMatrixGarage, but since the site went down the information is no longer available to those who need it. I figured I'll post it here seeing that the community has treated me so well over the years. Thanks to dnm for providing me with the How To's I submitted on TMG before closing down the site.

How To: Install A Rear Wiper Assembly (03-08)
HOW TO: Install a rear wiper on a 03-08 Matrix equipped w/o a rear wiper.

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damages caused by following the steps below. Please note that this “How To” will not cover the installation of a rear washer nozel, rear spoiler, rear washer reservoir, rear washer hose, or a rear washer pump.

ATTN: Prior to proceeding, please take the time to verify your Matrix is wired for a rear wiper by:
1. Checking that the fuse box (located within the cab under the driver side dash) is housing a 15amp fuse in the “Rear Wiper” slot. Note: A diagram listing the location of this fuse can be found on the Fuse Box cover.
2. Checking that there is a connection for the “Rear Wiper Relay” (located in the rear door hatch).
3. Checking that the “Rear Wiper Relay” connection is receiving power.
4. Checking that there is a connection for the “Rear Wiper Motor” (located in the panel on the rear hatch glass).

TOOLS:
Flat Head Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver (or similar tool)
10mm Deep Socket
Socket Wrench

PARTS LIST:



STEPS:
1. Open the glass portion of the rear hatch.

2. With a Flat Head Screwdriver gently pry open the plastic casing surrounding the rear wiper bracket. Work your way around the casing releasing all the clips. Note: Be careful not to break the clips.

3. Remove the two 10mm nuts and remove the wire harness from the studs. (See pic below)


4. Remove the three Phillips Head Screws. (See pic below)


5. Remove the 10mm bolt that secures the rear glass handle and the 10mm nut that holds the rear wiper bracket in place.
Note: Be sure to support the rear wiper bracket. A second set of hands are useful here. (See pic below)



6. Turn the Wiper Bracket over and unclip the plastic wire retainer.

7. Insert the new Wiper Bracket (with Rear Wiper Motor) by securing the bracket with the 3 Phillips Head Screws removed in Step 4.

8. Replace the wire harness removed in Step 3 and the 10mm nut removed in Step 5. Note: Be careful not too torque these too tightly because you can crack the glass.

9. Connect the Wiper Motor to the wire harness and clip the wire retainer back into place. (See pic below)



10. Replace the cover and close the glass portion of the hatch.

11. With the glass portion closed assemble the wiper assembly as pictured in the parts diagram (located in the Parts List of this How To) and you’re done.

12. The only thing left to do will be to install a Rear Wiper Relay and a Wiper Switch (w/ rear wiper).

For a How To on installing the Rear Wiper Relay see (Mod Please Insert link from my other How To)
For a How To on installing a Rear Wiper Switch see (Mod please insert link from my other How To)

I originally posted this on TheMatrixGarage, but since the site went down the information is no longer available to those who need it. I figured I'll post it here seeing that the community has treated me so well over the years. Thanks to dnm for providing me with the How To's I submitted on TMG before closing down the site.

HOW TO: Install a rear wiper relay. (03-08 Matrix)

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damages caused by following the steps below.

TOOLS:
Flat Head Screwdriver (or similar tool)

PARTS LIST:
Rear Wiper Relay

STEPS:
1. Open the rear hatch door.

2. Remove the plastic door paneling by separating the paneling from the rear door. While providing leverage with a Flat Head Screwdriver, gently work your way around the door releasing the plastic clips. (Below is a picture of the panel removed showing the clip locations.)



3. Connect the rear wiper relay and secure it to the door frame. (See pics below) Note: Due to my stereo insulation, I can not show you where or how the rear wiper relay bracket mounts. Instead I used zip ties to secure my relay. "ZTFTW"





4. Replace the paneling, close the rear hatch, and you’re done.

I originally posted this on TheMatrixGarage, but since the site went down the information is no longer available to those who need it. I figured I'll post it here seeing that the community has treated me so well over the years. Thanks to dnm for providing me with the How To's I submitted on TMG before closing down the site.

HOW TO: Install a wiper switch. (03-08 Matrix)

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damages caused by following the steps below.

TOOLS:
Flat Head Screwdriver (or similar tool)
Phillips Head Screwdriver

PARTS:
Wiper Switch

STEPS:
1. Lower the steering wheel.

2. Remove the three Phillips Head Screws (See pic's below).





3. Remove the lower portion of the steering wheel casing by pushing “in” on the sides and pulling “down” gently. (See pic below).



4. Lift the upper portion of the steering wheel casing to allow access to the wiper switch (It may help if you turn the “Indicator” and “Wiper” switch down). Note: You do not need to completely remove this cover, simply allow enough room to freely access the Wiper Switch.

5. Unplug the wire harness from the wiper switch. (See pic below)



6. With a Flat Head Screwdriver, depress the clip on the wiper switch and slide the wiper switch off the bracket. (See pic below)



7. Slide the new wiper switch onto the bracket. You will hear it “click” indicating it has locked into place. Note: If your new wiper switch is missing the clear plastic circuit board cover, use the one from the removed wiper switch.

8. Turn your car on and test the switch.

9. Reverse steps 1 thru 5 to finish.

Hey everyone, this is my first "How To" so hopefully I don't miss anything, lol.

If you've ever wanted to boost your 1zz-fe FWD but needed to add a wideband 02 sensor, you'd realize it's not as easy as lifting the car and tossing in a bung on the downpipe like most cars. The 03-08 matrix 1zz-fe FWD has 2 catalytic converters, the first one right after the exhaust manifold. Your wideband needs to be set up before the first cat and therefore, you need to place the wideband in the manifold itself. If you're a 4WD, ignore this because this is the ONE & ONLY time you guys have an advantage over us 2WD guys. 4WD has a proper downpipe before the cat. This how-to will also be good if you just want to swap up your exhaust manifold for an aftermarket header. (2WD only)

**DISCLAIMER**
I, CORZRYDE in part with MO.com am in no way responsible for any damage caused to one's self or vehicle involved due to any member's lack of knowledge or skill. These instructions are guidelines ONLY! If you don't feel comfortable undertaking this procedure, then don't. Please take your car to a professional, thank you.

Now that that's out of the way, let's begin.

Tools needed:

Pump jack & stands
PB blaster or Break-Away (anti-seize spray)
10mm, 12mm & 14mm sockets, preferrably deep sockets and in 3/8 or 1/2 drive
3/8 & 1/2 drive socket wrenches
1/2 extensions
Breaker bar (1/2 drive)
Torque wrench
90 degree attachment or pivot attachment. (for torquing back on head nuts)

Step 1: Pop hood and locate the 2, 10mm nuts holding the engine cover. Remove the nuts and pull up frimly to release the 2 pop nuts @ the back of the cover. Set aside neatly. Unplug the first 02 sensor before continuing.

Step 2: Take anti-seize spray and spray the 4, 12mm bolts for the exhaust heat shield. Let sit for 10-15 mins. Come back and remove the 4 bolts carefully! The top 2 should be simple, but the lower 2 are probably rusted and will round very easily. If you round the head of one, you'll need to use vice grips, a grabber bit or even a grinder, (like I had to with one of mine, lol). You can always buy a replacement bolt, but the heat shield can survive on 3 bolts. Carefully feed the 02 sensor cord through the heat shield opening. Once removed, set aside neatly. (Pic of heat shield & bolts)


Step 3: Take anti-seize spray and spray down 5, 12mm head bolts that hold manifold, 2, 14mm spring bolts that hold ball joint assembly, (manifold to cat) and 3, 14mm bolts that hold manifold stay bracket under the manifold, (if desired). Let sit for awhile, the longer the better. Go eat, have a couple of beers, take a nap, whatever, just let them sit to soak in the spray.

Step 4: Come back and carefully remove the 5, 12mm head bolts with socket wrench. Don't apply too much pressure as you don't want to snap a head stud. If you do, it's a b!tch to repair and probably will require drilling, tapping, etc. Take the 5 nuts and carefully set aside where you won't lose them.

Step 5: Jack up front end of car as high as it'll go. If you have access to a hoist, use it! For the other 98% of you, jack it up and use the jack stands! I'm not responsible if you get crushed, lol.

Step 6: Get under car and with breaker bar, (or 1/2 drive socket wrench) and remove the 2, 14mm spring assy bolts. These are the hardest to remove and will require a deep socket, extension and probably the breaker bar for leverage. Set aside bolts with springs. (pic of ball joint assy)

You can see the extension going up the left of the cat and the other bolt is to the upper right.

Step 7: Remove either the 2, 14mm stay bracket bolts or the 1, 14mm pivot bolt on the stay bracket. The 2 bolts are easier to remove, but pulling the manifold out with the full bracket is more difficult. The choice is yours. At this point, the manifold should be free. Set aside bolts. (see pic)


Step 8: Pump up jack to free the jack stands and lower vehicle back down. Carefully free manifold away from engine and remove EM gasket. Inspect gasket for damage. It's a 2 plated metal gasket and as long as it's kink-free and both plates are still attached, it can be reused. You can gently wipe away any residue with a soft cloth. Set gasket aside gently until install time.

Step 9: Carefully feed the EM up between the engine & firewall. This is somewhat difficult but not impossible. Take your time and don't get frustrated as you don't want to damage any fuel lines, etc. on the firewall. Once out, you can proceed right away to step 10. Leave the stay bracket, 02 sensor and lower heat shield attached, if desired.

Step 10: It's time to drill and weld in your wideband bung. My suggestion is to call ahead to a exhaust shop that you trust and set up an appointment with them first. If you have a good drill & welder, (and know what you're doing) you can attempt this yourself. The manifold is double walled and is difficult to drill, you may need to machine the top layer after drilling to properly drill the 2nd layer. The bung should go 1-2 inches down stream from the narrowband 02 sensor, not before it! You can keep the narrowband in during drilling/welding but cover it/tape it up before welding to avoid it getting damaged.

Here's an after pic of the completed EM, ready for install:


To re-install, work your way backwards through the steps, starting with feeding the EM back into place and getting it into position. Don't forget your EM gasket!!!

Torque specs:

Exhaust Manifold head nuts ~ 27 ft. lbs
Spring Assy bolts ~ 32 ft. lbs
Manifold stay bracket ~ 37 ft. lbs
Pivot bolt ~ 30ish or hand tight (couldn't find actual spec)
Heat shield bolts ~ 9 ft. lbs (or snugged up as 9 ft. lbs is hard to measure)

I suggest installing the wideband 02 sensor BEFORE putting EM back in as it's difficult to get it afterwards.

If you are re-installing the heat shield, you'll need to cut out a section for the wideband. Use a cutting wheel/grinder, (use safety glasses please) or hella strong tin snips. This heat shield is double layered. Here's what mine looked like:


Completed install pic:


Hope this helps someone, as I had to learn this first hand, with the help of the local MO community... (you know who you are )

Cheers!

I know there are other how-to's for this and mine will be a quick CLIFFS NOTES style write-up, sorry no pictures right now, my camera oficially crapped out.

Tools Needed:
Socket sizes: 12mm non-deep, 14mm non-deep, 3" 3/8's extension, 17mm, 6mm hex (optional), 19mm, 21mm, 22mm 6" 1/2" extension (optional)
Other Tools: 3/8" ratchet, cheater pipe, locking pliers/visegrips (optional), penetrating oil (i prefer PB Blast), flathead screwdriver, sledge hammer
-air impact gun + air compressor (optional but makes this WAY EASIER, I honestly wouldn't bother doing this install w/out air tools)
-spring compressors & appropriate sockets to operate them, also a 1/2" extension may be required

FRONTS:
-loosen lugnuts (21mm x 5)
-jack car up & lower onto jackstands
-remove lugnuts & wheel
-remove 14mm brakeline bolt & push brakelines under the bracket on strut
-remove 17mm endlink nut. NOTE: spray with penetrating oil recommended. if it spins with the balljoint use the 6mm hex and a 17mm combination wrench. Mine was so frozen on I had to use locking pliers on the backside of it to hold the balljoint in place while I impact-gunned the 17mm nut off
-use impact gun or breaker bar to remove 2x 22mm nuts from strut-to-hub bolts. pop the bolts through & the hub should fall down. Push the hub towards the front of the car
-Open your hood & secure it, remove 3x 12mm nuts holding strut to strut tower. THe last nut will require you to hold the strut while loosening or it will fall onto your axle & potentially tear your axle boot

COMPRESS FRONT SPRING TIME:
-NOTE: I had to put the spring compresses upright & used a 6" 1/2" extensoin to get my 19mm socket on my compressors. Compress a little on each side at a time. I had to practially lock my compressers together to get the spring compressed enough to remove b/c of how few coils you can use to get the comrpessors on. I got one on 2 coils and the other on 3 coils to compress.
-use flat head scredriver to remove rubber dustcover from top of strut shaft. Top nut is 19mm, blast it loose with air tools & hope the shaft doesnt' spin with it. If it does use a hex wrench + combination wrench to get the nut off
-Swap spring insulator onto new strut, bumpstops & put the dustboot/top insulator on new spring. Put tophat on & strut mount on & reinstall 19mm nut. You may or maynot have to compress the spring to install the fronts, I have never had to.

Re-install strut/spring onto your car, pretty much reverse the removal:
-install 3x 12mm nuts to secure strut mount to strut tower
-line up hub & slot the 2 22mm bolts through, push the top of the brake rotor at the 12 o'clock position to keep your camber in check & tighten the 2x 22mm nuts.
-reinstall 14mm brakeline brackets & bolt & 17mm endlink nut
-reinstall wheel, jack up car & lower onto ground DONE

REARS:
NOTE: I highly recommend removing 1 strut at a time & reinstalling it before doing the other side. Otherwise your entire axle beam will drop and you'll need to use a jack to raise it enough to secure the lower strut mounts.
-pop rear hatch & remove smaller plastic floor panel (directly behind rear seatbacks)
-remove 7x 12mm bolts holding 3x LATCH child saftey seat anchors, 2x bolts holding the plastic floor bin in place & 2x bolts holding the 2 main floor panels hinges in place
-remove main floor panel, remove main floor panel bin's locknut & remove both floor panel bins. Now you have access to the 4x 14mm top nuts for the rear struts (2x per side)
-Loosen lugnuts (5x 21mm) jack car up & secure on jackstands, remove wheel
-remove 1x 14mm bolt that holes strut mount to body, it might be a pain to get a socket on it cuz of the rubber spring insulator, i actually had to cut a chunk of rubber off mine to get it
-using airtools & penetrating oil remove lower 19mm bolt holding strut on, remove washer.
-remove 2x top 14mm nuts holding strut on, the strut shouldn't fall through.
-get back to the side & give the lower body of the strut a whack with your hammer (not too hard) and it should move off of the axle beam. Using a slight twisting action remove the strut

COMPRESS REAR SPRING TIME:
NOTE: i had to invert my spring compressors AND align them to the sides of the strut, otherwise the spring compressor bolts smack into the upper mount & won't fit. Compress that spring a LOT and then remove top nut with a 17mm socket (in combination with allen wrench if its being stubborn).
-swap bumpstops, dust cover, metal washer & top strutmount back onto new struts with the new lowering springs & reinstall top nut. You may or may not have to compress the spring to get it on.

Re installation is reverse of removal:
-using a twisting action slot the upper tophat threads through strut towers, using a twisting action whack the lower strutmount onto the axle beam. Put washer on & air-hammer the 19mm lower nut back on
-loosely install 2x 14mm nuts onto tophats but don't tighten yet! first install the lower 14mm bolt, it can be a b1tch to align this bolt to the threads properly, tighten that BEFORE tightening the top 2x 14mm nuts. Reinstall wheels, tighten lugnuts & lower car onto ground
-put black lower floor bins back into car & tighten the locknut threading into the spare tire. put floor panel cover back in place & align hinges. Loosely tighen the 12mm bolts making sure the metal tabs on the hinge brackets are properly slotted into the body. Tighten them all the way.
-reinstall 3x LATCH anchors and 2x 12mm bolts holding the smaller floor bin in place. Reinstall small floor panel DONE!!!

Here is what I have as a quick write up so far. I wanted to get it up as quick as possible and will work on a prettier version on here once I get it formatted and all completed. I am missing how to calibrate the gauges and also how to change needle color, but this should get most people working.
Let me know what you think

How to swap LEDs on 2003 Toyota Matrix XRS Instrument Cluster

http://webpages.charter.net/dodadew/Matrix/ledcluster/

I have a 2005 Matrix XRS and found myself about a month ago with no heat at all from the far right vent, and lukewarm air blowing from the middle right vent. The far left and middle left were still giving good heat. Well, after searching and searching I eventually was able to come up with the fact that the heater core needed to be flushed. I wasn't able to find it on this site so I decided to write up how I fixed the problem. First, turn the temperature dial on the dashboard to full heat, but leave the car off. Next, find the hoses that go into the firewall into the heater core. They are on the driver's side behind the engine block, just to the right of center. There are two hoses, one just below the other and about the size of a garden hose. There are two routes you can go from here. You can either disconnect the hoses where they run into the firewall, or follow the hoses back to the other end and disconnect them from the opposite side. I personally found it was much easier to disconnect them from the firewall. Since I did it this way, my how to is going to go from there. After disconnecting the hoses you'll be looking at two small metal nozzles. Get a garden hose and doing your best to create a seal around the end, flush water through the heater core. You'll know this is working because water and coolant will come out from the other nozzle. After letting the water run for a minute or so, put the hose onto the other nozzle and let the water go back through the core the other direction. Again, water and (some) coolant will come out from the other nozzle. Alternate this for a few minutes until the water runs clear in both directions. Here's where this gets a little redneck. I don't have an air compressor so in order to get the water out of the heater core I had to improvise. Get an empty 20 ounce soda bottle and push the cap end onto one of the nozzles. Forcefully crush the bottle and water will come out the other side. Do this a few times on both nozzles until you aren't able to get any more water to come out. If you do have an air compressor, you'll need to make sure that you set the PSI down below 20 PSI. You don't want to blow a hole in your heater core. Reconnect the hoses and top up your coolant level if necessary. Bingo, you now have heat on the passenger side again.

Im going to produce the bracket piece that people keep asking me about. It will be just the bracket, you supply your own pulley, either your current or a new one, your choice! Im debating whether to make it from Aluminum or Stainless still, going to talk to my machinist today when I send the drawing over. How many people would want these?? If you say yes, be ready to put a deposit down on them this week!! Don't say yes if you aren't 100% certain you want one. Im not going to make these to sit on them like the Manifold Adapters everyone wanted then never bought lol. So before I produce them there will be a deposit with a list of people or nothing made! Just a FYI!

So who wants? Ill have a rough idea on price in the next 2 days. Can't imagine they will be much more then $100 depending on what material we go with!

We now have the Teflon material back in stock to make the gaskets for our adapter kits. So if you were waiting on us to order a kit, now's your chance to get one. They are made to order and take about 2 weeks from your order date to have it made and then shipped out to you. Thanks

Hey guys,

I posted about this earlier. I was able to get in touch with PPE and get a discount. The discount isn't that heavy but anyway here it is.

1ZZ-FE (Toyota Matrix XR & XR Supercharged)

Header

PPE Header (W/ Polished Ceramic Coating) - $455.00

PPE Header (W/ Polished Ceramic Coating) For Supercharged 1ZZ (XR) - $600.00

Midpipe

PPE Engineering 304 Stainless Midpipe (W/ Out Cat) - $360.00

PPE Engineering 304 Stainless Midpipe (W/ Cat) - $460.00


2ZZ-GE (Toyota Matrix XRS)


Header

PPE Header 4-1 Long Tube Race Header (W/ Mild Steel Coating) - $495.00

PPE Header 4-1 Long Tube Race Header (W/ Polished Ceramic Coating) - $650.00

Midpipe

PPE 304 Stainless Midpipe (W/ Out Cat) - $360.00

PPE 304 Stainless Midpipe (W/ Cat) - $460.00


Require at least 5 orders minimum to get this going. All prices are plus shipping and if you're in Canada then it's plus duties, etc. I can always have it shipped for you to a shipping depot in the states where you can go across the border and pick it up. If you're interested please put a number by your name and list it.