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Trying to find Redline MT-90 or Amsoil severe gear but no one seems to carry it in the KW region. The best synthetic 75w90 I can find is either Castrol or Lucas oils.
Anyone know if either is okay for the c59? The Lucas is GL4 & GL5 compliant, not sure about the Castrol...
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How To: Add Wideband To Exhaust Manifold (w/ Pics!)
14 April 2013 - 10:07 AM
Hey everyone, this is my first "How To" so hopefully I don't miss anything, lol.
If you've ever wanted to boost your 1zz-fe FWD but needed to add a wideband 02 sensor, you'd realize it's not as easy as lifting the car and tossing in a bung on the downpipe like most cars. The 03-08 matrix 1zz-fe FWD has 2 catalytic converters, the first one right after the exhaust manifold. Your wideband needs to be set up before the first cat and therefore, you need to place the wideband in the manifold itself. If you're a 4WD, ignore this because this is the ONE & ONLY time you guys have an advantage over us 2WD guys. 4WD has a proper downpipe before the cat. This how-to will also be good if you just want to swap up your exhaust manifold for an aftermarket header. (2WD only)
**DISCLAIMER**
I, CORZRYDE in part with MO.com am in no way responsible for any damage caused to one's self or vehicle involved due to any member's lack of knowledge or skill. These instructions are guidelines ONLY! If you don't feel comfortable undertaking this procedure, then don't. Please take your car to a professional, thank you.
Now that that's out of the way, let's begin.
Tools needed:
Pump jack & stands
PB blaster or Break-Away (anti-seize spray)
10mm, 12mm & 14mm sockets, preferrably deep sockets and in 3/8 or 1/2 drive
3/8 & 1/2 drive socket wrenches
1/2 extensions
Breaker bar (1/2 drive)
Torque wrench
90 degree attachment or pivot attachment. (for torquing back on head nuts)
Step 1: Pop hood and locate the 2, 10mm nuts holding the engine cover. Remove the nuts and pull up frimly to release the 2 pop nuts @ the back of the cover. Set aside neatly. Unplug the first 02 sensor before continuing.
Step 2: Take anti-seize spray and spray the 4, 12mm bolts for the exhaust heat shield. Let sit for 10-15 mins. Come back and remove the 4 bolts carefully! The top 2 should be simple, but the lower 2 are probably rusted and will round very easily. If you round the head of one, you'll need to use vice grips, a grabber bit or even a grinder, (like I had to with one of mine, lol). You can always buy a replacement bolt, but the heat shield can survive on 3 bolts. Carefully feed the 02 sensor cord through the heat shield opening. Once removed, set aside neatly. (Pic of heat shield & bolts)
Step 3: Take anti-seize spray and spray down 5, 12mm head bolts that hold manifold, 2, 14mm spring bolts that hold ball joint assembly, (manifold to cat) and 3, 14mm bolts that hold manifold stay bracket under the manifold, (if desired). Let sit for awhile, the longer the better. Go eat, have a couple of beers, take a nap, whatever, just let them sit to soak in the spray.
Step 4: Come back and carefully remove the 5, 12mm head bolts with socket wrench. Don't apply too much pressure as you don't want to snap a head stud. If you do, it's a b!tch to repair and probably will require drilling, tapping, etc. Take the 5 nuts and carefully set aside where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Jack up front end of car as high as it'll go. If you have access to a hoist, use it! For the other 98% of you, jack it up and use the jack stands! I'm not responsible if you get crushed, lol.
Step 6: Get under car and with breaker bar, (or 1/2 drive socket wrench) and remove the 2, 14mm spring assy bolts. These are the hardest to remove and will require a deep socket, extension and probably the breaker bar for leverage. Set aside bolts with springs. (pic of ball joint assy)
You can see the extension going up the left of the cat and the other bolt is to the upper right.
Step 7: Remove either the 2, 14mm stay bracket bolts or the 1, 14mm pivot bolt on the stay bracket. The 2 bolts are easier to remove, but pulling the manifold out with the full bracket is more difficult. The choice is yours. At this point, the manifold should be free. Set aside bolts. (see pic)
Step 8: Pump up jack to free the jack stands and lower vehicle back down. Carefully free manifold away from engine and remove EM gasket. Inspect gasket for damage. It's a 2 plated metal gasket and as long as it's kink-free and both plates are still attached, it can be reused. You can gently wipe away any residue with a soft cloth. Set gasket aside gently until install time.
Step 9: Carefully feed the EM up between the engine & firewall. This is somewhat difficult but not impossible. Take your time and don't get frustrated as you don't want to damage any fuel lines, etc. on the firewall. Once out, you can proceed right away to step 10. Leave the stay bracket, 02 sensor and lower heat shield attached, if desired.
Step 10: It's time to drill and weld in your wideband bung. My suggestion is to call ahead to a exhaust shop that you trust and set up an appointment with them first. If you have a good drill & welder, (and know what you're doing) you can attempt this yourself. The manifold is double walled and is difficult to drill, you may need to machine the top layer after drilling to properly drill the 2nd layer. The bung should go 1-2 inches down stream from the narrowband 02 sensor, not before it! You can keep the narrowband in during drilling/welding but cover it/tape it up before welding to avoid it getting damaged.
Here's an after pic of the completed EM, ready for install:
To re-install, work your way backwards through the steps, starting with feeding the EM back into place and getting it into position. Don't forget your EM gasket!!!
Torque specs:
Exhaust Manifold head nuts ~ 27 ft. lbs
Spring Assy bolts ~ 32 ft. lbs
Manifold stay bracket ~ 37 ft. lbs
Pivot bolt ~ 30ish or hand tight (couldn't find actual spec)
Heat shield bolts ~ 9 ft. lbs (or snugged up as 9 ft. lbs is hard to measure)
I suggest installing the wideband 02 sensor BEFORE putting EM back in as it's difficult to get it afterwards.
If you are re-installing the heat shield, you'll need to cut out a section for the wideband. Use a cutting wheel/grinder, (use safety glasses please) or hella strong tin snips. This heat shield is double layered. Here's what mine looked like:
Completed install pic:
Hope this helps someone, as I had to learn this first hand, with the help of the local MO community... (you know who you are
)
Cheers!
If you've ever wanted to boost your 1zz-fe FWD but needed to add a wideband 02 sensor, you'd realize it's not as easy as lifting the car and tossing in a bung on the downpipe like most cars. The 03-08 matrix 1zz-fe FWD has 2 catalytic converters, the first one right after the exhaust manifold. Your wideband needs to be set up before the first cat and therefore, you need to place the wideband in the manifold itself. If you're a 4WD, ignore this because this is the ONE & ONLY time you guys have an advantage over us 2WD guys. 4WD has a proper downpipe before the cat. This how-to will also be good if you just want to swap up your exhaust manifold for an aftermarket header. (2WD only)
**DISCLAIMER**
I, CORZRYDE in part with MO.com am in no way responsible for any damage caused to one's self or vehicle involved due to any member's lack of knowledge or skill. These instructions are guidelines ONLY! If you don't feel comfortable undertaking this procedure, then don't. Please take your car to a professional, thank you.
Now that that's out of the way, let's begin.
Tools needed:
Pump jack & stands
PB blaster or Break-Away (anti-seize spray)
10mm, 12mm & 14mm sockets, preferrably deep sockets and in 3/8 or 1/2 drive
3/8 & 1/2 drive socket wrenches
1/2 extensions
Breaker bar (1/2 drive)
Torque wrench
90 degree attachment or pivot attachment. (for torquing back on head nuts)
Step 1: Pop hood and locate the 2, 10mm nuts holding the engine cover. Remove the nuts and pull up frimly to release the 2 pop nuts @ the back of the cover. Set aside neatly. Unplug the first 02 sensor before continuing.
Step 2: Take anti-seize spray and spray the 4, 12mm bolts for the exhaust heat shield. Let sit for 10-15 mins. Come back and remove the 4 bolts carefully! The top 2 should be simple, but the lower 2 are probably rusted and will round very easily. If you round the head of one, you'll need to use vice grips, a grabber bit or even a grinder, (like I had to with one of mine, lol). You can always buy a replacement bolt, but the heat shield can survive on 3 bolts. Carefully feed the 02 sensor cord through the heat shield opening. Once removed, set aside neatly. (Pic of heat shield & bolts)
Step 3: Take anti-seize spray and spray down 5, 12mm head bolts that hold manifold, 2, 14mm spring bolts that hold ball joint assembly, (manifold to cat) and 3, 14mm bolts that hold manifold stay bracket under the manifold, (if desired). Let sit for awhile, the longer the better. Go eat, have a couple of beers, take a nap, whatever, just let them sit to soak in the spray.
Step 4: Come back and carefully remove the 5, 12mm head bolts with socket wrench. Don't apply too much pressure as you don't want to snap a head stud. If you do, it's a b!tch to repair and probably will require drilling, tapping, etc. Take the 5 nuts and carefully set aside where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Jack up front end of car as high as it'll go. If you have access to a hoist, use it! For the other 98% of you, jack it up and use the jack stands! I'm not responsible if you get crushed, lol.
Step 6: Get under car and with breaker bar, (or 1/2 drive socket wrench) and remove the 2, 14mm spring assy bolts. These are the hardest to remove and will require a deep socket, extension and probably the breaker bar for leverage. Set aside bolts with springs. (pic of ball joint assy)
You can see the extension going up the left of the cat and the other bolt is to the upper right.
Step 7: Remove either the 2, 14mm stay bracket bolts or the 1, 14mm pivot bolt on the stay bracket. The 2 bolts are easier to remove, but pulling the manifold out with the full bracket is more difficult. The choice is yours. At this point, the manifold should be free. Set aside bolts. (see pic)
Step 8: Pump up jack to free the jack stands and lower vehicle back down. Carefully free manifold away from engine and remove EM gasket. Inspect gasket for damage. It's a 2 plated metal gasket and as long as it's kink-free and both plates are still attached, it can be reused. You can gently wipe away any residue with a soft cloth. Set gasket aside gently until install time.
Step 9: Carefully feed the EM up between the engine & firewall. This is somewhat difficult but not impossible. Take your time and don't get frustrated as you don't want to damage any fuel lines, etc. on the firewall. Once out, you can proceed right away to step 10. Leave the stay bracket, 02 sensor and lower heat shield attached, if desired.
Step 10: It's time to drill and weld in your wideband bung. My suggestion is to call ahead to a exhaust shop that you trust and set up an appointment with them first. If you have a good drill & welder, (and know what you're doing) you can attempt this yourself. The manifold is double walled and is difficult to drill, you may need to machine the top layer after drilling to properly drill the 2nd layer. The bung should go 1-2 inches down stream from the narrowband 02 sensor, not before it! You can keep the narrowband in during drilling/welding but cover it/tape it up before welding to avoid it getting damaged.
Here's an after pic of the completed EM, ready for install:
To re-install, work your way backwards through the steps, starting with feeding the EM back into place and getting it into position. Don't forget your EM gasket!!!
Torque specs:
Exhaust Manifold head nuts ~ 27 ft. lbs
Spring Assy bolts ~ 32 ft. lbs
Manifold stay bracket ~ 37 ft. lbs
Pivot bolt ~ 30ish or hand tight (couldn't find actual spec)
Heat shield bolts ~ 9 ft. lbs (or snugged up as 9 ft. lbs is hard to measure)
I suggest installing the wideband 02 sensor BEFORE putting EM back in as it's difficult to get it afterwards.
If you are re-installing the heat shield, you'll need to cut out a section for the wideband. Use a cutting wheel/grinder, (use safety glasses please) or hella strong tin snips. This heat shield is double layered. Here's what mine looked like:
Completed install pic:
Hope this helps someone, as I had to learn this first hand, with the help of the local MO community... (you know who you are
)Cheers!
Fuel Injectors For Boosting
04 March 2013 - 10:56 AM
So I'm finishing up my shopping for my blower build & I'm wondering what 2zz injector should I be looking for. I'll be running a TRD SC w/ GReddy EMU & instead of running the 5th injector, I'm going to run 4 2zz injectors.
From my research so far, it looks like the 1zz injectors are around 265cc, while the 2zz injectors are between 310cc to 350cc, (don't know how accurate the source was...).
MWR claims that the yellow 310cc is a good upgrade for the TRD SC when tuning, but should I be aiming for higher? I thought the browns are 330cc but again, sources are inadequate.
Also, where's the best place to buy injectors for cheap? I'm avoiding new because they're $$$ big time! Remanufactured are somewhat pricey, but manageable. Looked at rockauto.com, but they didn't say 1zz or 2zz for most of the injectors and I want to be sure what I'm buying, before I purchase. Would it be safe to pick up injectors from a scrapyard? Also, the Celica yellow's, are they direct fit just like the XRS?
Sorry for all the questions, but they're seems to be a butt load available with many different part #s, so I'm unsure which ones I should be looking for...
Signed,
New to the boosting world...
From my research so far, it looks like the 1zz injectors are around 265cc, while the 2zz injectors are between 310cc to 350cc, (don't know how accurate the source was...).
MWR claims that the yellow 310cc is a good upgrade for the TRD SC when tuning, but should I be aiming for higher? I thought the browns are 330cc but again, sources are inadequate.
Also, where's the best place to buy injectors for cheap? I'm avoiding new because they're $$$ big time! Remanufactured are somewhat pricey, but manageable. Looked at rockauto.com, but they didn't say 1zz or 2zz for most of the injectors and I want to be sure what I'm buying, before I purchase. Would it be safe to pick up injectors from a scrapyard? Also, the Celica yellow's, are they direct fit just like the XRS?
Sorry for all the questions, but they're seems to be a butt load available with many different part #s, so I'm unsure which ones I should be looking for...
Signed,
New to the boosting world...
