10 replies to this topic

[chitownmtx03]

Hello all! I'm very new here on the forum, but have owned a Matrix for over six years. I have found answers to a couple of questions here, but now I have a situation that few can seem to answer for me. I will start from the earliest situation and move forwar in time.

My car is a 2003 Matrix XR 4WD. It has the 1ZZFE engine and an automatic transmission. Three months ago, I noticed the engine power was lagging considerably, behaving almost like serious vacuum leak or loss of spark. Shortly after the problem started, the "Check Engine" light came on. Upon checking the code (Misfire on Cyl 1. Sorry, I forgot the P-number), a local mechanic checked a few things and ruled out a vacuum leak and spark malady, but I did not trust his methods. The car had 140,000 miles on it at the time and I suspected it needed plugs (orig plugs were changed at 80,000), but he deemed them OK. Then he "checked" the coils and injectors by unplugging each systematically and noticing if the engine either smoothed out or died altogether. He refused to consider a potentially bad coil as being the root of the problem, but once I left, I soon had a "Check Engine" light that not only stayed lit, but flashed. I had the codes pulled and it showed misfires on cylinders one AND two now. I took matters into my own hands and changed both affected coils along with a fresh set of NGK Iridium plugs. The CEL went out, but the car's performance improved just slghtly.

I suspected a clogged converter, but exhaust flow is good and fuel mileage is right about where it's been all the while (24-25 MPG in city). I thought possibly injectors, as I had experienced a hard starting condition and a raw fuel smell at startup on a couple of occassions. But the car usually has a crisp throttle response right off idle. The real problem is when the car is under a load, specifically when going up an incline. I have had situations where the car would not go over 25 MPH climbing a hill, and it's acceleration on a level surface is nowhere close to where it used to be. Out of gear, throttle response is fairly good and she revs OK, but in gear, forget it. Some have mentioned a bad fuel filter, but the car's fuel filter is attached to the fuel pump and mounted inside the fuel tank. The reason I was told this was due to the fact that the engine will bog if I floor the accelerator. Literally, the revs will drop below 2K and the engine acts as if it were starved for fuel. Also, at times when she accelerates, I hear a rattlng sound, almost resemling pre-detonation or a loud lifter tick. But the oil level is where it should be.

Now, one thing I must mention is that almost two years ago, the car experinced a sudden loss of oil and the oil pressure light came on. Understandably, I felt the car's performance dip sharply, as if the loss of pressure had engaged a circuit that would diminish spark and not allow the engine to rev. I stopped the car and shut off the engine immediately. In a strange twist, I found the sudden loss of oil was attributed to a missing drain plug. The plug was replaced, tightened, and fresh oil added. The car started and ran wonderfully. Could this loss of oil pressure have somehow had an affect on the oil pump? Could the car be low on pressure now, therefore running below the power band? (Note: Oil Pressure light does not come on during operation)

Another thing I must mention is that the extreme drops in performance (engine bogging, stumbling, hesitation) are NOT consistent. Usually, the car will accelerate mildly if the throttle is opened up below half way. Sometimes off the line, she will hesitate harshly, but other times it's very smooth. I mention this because I believe that if it were a true mechanical issue (worn cams, cracked head, etc.), the problems would be experienced on a consistent basis. But she seems to have "not so great" moments and "pretty bad" moments. I have no CEL showing, no oil pressure light, no temp light (temp runs right in the range) and cold startup is pretty solid and drama-free.

Is there anything else I should consider? Have any of you out there come across a similar situation? Any help regarding this matter would be greatly appreciated. Anyone needing any further specific details please let me know. Thank in advance.

[Natetrix]

Missing drain plug?!shiat man that's real bad. I once had a hole in my oil filter and I thought that was bad.

So how was the plug missing?did you ever figure it out?

[RotorXR]

Try these basic tests with tools you can borrow from autozone for free.

What's the fuel pressure when it's acting up? a clogged fuel filter or poorly performing pump will cause low fuel pressure under full throttle.

Since it's a high mileage engine and you mentioned engine oil starvation you should check the cylinder compression. if compression is low or uneven across the cylinders (>~10% difference) you may have serious problems.

We can't diagnose "engine problems" on the interweb without you getting your hands dirty and providing data. There are some VERY good mechs on here that are happy to help if you do your part.

good luck.

Edited by RotorXR, 31 July 2012 - 11:09 PM.

[tebore]

You said it's fine out of gear. I'm wondering if the TC lock up either solenoid or what not is not unlocking... or not downshifting.

These engines make little to no TQ if you can't unlock the TC or can't downshift you're going no where fast and will bog/stall.

Try a manual downshift/gear limiting to see if the problem comes up. Turning off O/D or holding lower gears on the shifter.
You can also try pulling the relay/fuse for the TC lockup.

[chitownmtx03]

Thanks for the responses, guys!

Unfortunately, I don't have the means to tear into the car at the moment. I'm not even a serious wrench, just able to take care of minor things. I plan on having a reputable mechanic look at the problem very soon and delve into the car for a day or more if necessary. It's more of a money/time issue at the moment. And yes, I have had people mention a possibly failing fuel pump, so I'm keeping that in mind.

Regarding the trans issue, she will definitely downshift if I hold the accelerator maxxed for a few seconds, and rev up to where the engine speed needs to be, but will still lag. It's almost as if the engine is below half power. I tried manually downshifting and same thing: Revs come up, but acceleration/power is not there. Don't know where to locate relay or fuse for TC lockup.

And the missing drain plug. Well, let's just say I attribute that to a personal issue involving a meathead. Said meathead has since that point kept their distance.

I appreciate the insight and welcome any other thoughts or ideas you guys may have.

Thanks again.

[Risen]

I have a 03 matrix 6spd xrs that I have tinkerd with for about 5yrs now, one thing that I have learned is that the matrix is a fun and unique vehicle expecally when it comes to its motors the 1zzfe and 2zzge engines,the valve train curcuit on these motors have a few more things going on in the loop because of the vvt system and in the 2zz lift,which all runs of the oil pressure, as far as in my case with the 2zz motor I was trying to find a similair issue that you had mentioned as far as pre-detonation, rattle sound, little loss of power, at acceleration etc. for sometime myself, was driving me nuts. what I found out what it ended up being in my case with the 2zz motor was that there are two small oil filters that are on the head of the motor that are by the lift accuators that when they got dirty they start causing the issues, once I cleaned them the sound went a way car ran smoother it got performance back,and better throttle response ect. on the 2zz they are by the lift accuators. In your case with the 1zz motor you would have to confirm if you have them on your 1zz motor and if you do I would see about checking them for starters and then go from there. I maintain and work on my own car and this is some thing that I found on my own and I dont think to many people know about when it comes to these motors. I would make sure that if you can not do it yourself that you find someone who understands what your looking for and you can trust.

Edited by Risen, 01 August 2012 - 03:43 PM.

[chitownmtx03]

Thanks for the reply Risen! Yes, the VVT-i was definitely in question regarding things I was considering! I was told there is an "actuator" or some sort (perhaps inertia driven?) that if failing can retard the cam timing and make the engine lag in power. I will definitely consider the idea of possibly inhibited oil flow to the valvetrain, so a VC gasket (and inspection of oil galleries) may be in short order.

But the idea of a fuel filter....because the fuel filter is mountedr on the intake of the pump (in the tank), does that mean "changing fuel filter" = "changing fuel pump"? I realize it requires accessing the tank, but can just the filter (or strainer) be changed?

[Risen]

chitownmtx03, on 03 August 2012 - 11:50 AM, said:

Thanks for the reply Risen! Yes, the VVT-i was definitely in question regarding things I was considering! I was told there is an "actuator" or some sort (perhaps inertia driven?) that if failing can retard the cam timing and make the engine lag in power. I will definitely consider the idea of possibly inhibited oil flow to the valvetrain, so a VC gasket (and inspection of oil galleries) may be in short order.

But the idea of a fuel filter....because the fuel filter is mountedr on the intake of the pump (in the tank), does that mean "changing fuel filter" = "changing fuel pump"? I realize it requires accessing the tank, but can just the filter (or strainer) be changed?

The best way is to keep things simple, based on what you where saying your issues are, to me it all sounds way to much of what I had which lead to the oil and valve train, I would look into them first and before the actuators giving you problems check the small filters first I think that might be your problem and take one step at a time that way you will have a better idea of what the problem was and two that you are not going into and changing things out that you dont have to and then maybe causing more problems then you need to. just my 02 cents.

By the way you do not need to remove the valve cover to check the actuator filters, unless you are going in to check things out.

Now I do not know what it takes to change out the pump and filter at the moment but if its easy to get to then at least check. I would do that for your peace of mind if thats the case.

Edited by Risen, 05 August 2012 - 03:27 PM.

[cbgrove]

fuel pump is pretty easy to get to...lift out lower back seat and remove six screws I think it is...The top will have a locking plate that you can loosen by bumping a tab with a hammer..Lift out unit and the 'sock" filter is just press fit to the pump..It should take half an hour to check that out and simple tools..10 mm wrench or socket if i remember correctly. Hope that helps...

[cbgrove]

oh pump does not have to be changed to change the filter..

[dnm]

I would start with the maf. Test/replace if necessary. Contrary to what some posts on this board might suggest, cleaning your maf achieves essentially nothing.