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[nomenclator]

Clutch master cylinder has too much free play between the push rod and the piston, measured at the pedal. Very annoying when I'm driving. Makes a loud click every time I press down the clutch pedal. I have a 2010 Matrix, and a service manual for 2010 corolla. I think the pedal is the same. The dashboard is different though. Acc to the Corolla service manual the correct pushrod free play as measured at the pedal top is 1 to 5mm. This is the spec for just the pushrod part of the pedal play, not the entire pedal play, the spec for which is 5 to 15mm. I measured my pushrod play at 13 mm, way larger than the max of 5mm.

There are 2 relevant adjustment points, (1) the pedal height bolt (pedal stopper bolt) used to adjust pedal height from the floor, and (2) at the pushrod itself. I measured my pedal height. The spec is 6.2 to 6.6 inches, with the carpet pulled back. Mine was 6.75 inches, measured from pedal top to floor, with the carpet and underlayment pulled back. So I would be adjusting the pedal height first, before working on the pushrod. I am concerned however that if I adjust the pedal height bolt, the button for the cruise control clutch switch assembly might not get pushed in far enough, when the pedal is released, to open (or is it close, I'll have to check the manual) the switch. Apparently the switch position is not adjustable! It would be nice if I could just assume that if the pedal height is adjusted properly, the switch button will go all the way in with the pedal up, but it is clear that if I lower the pedal height, by making the stopper bolt longer, the switch button will extend further.

Problem is, there is very little room to work, on either adjustment point. I can't believe how crowded things are. I miss my 1968 VW beetle.

The corolla manual says to first remove the "upper instrument panel assembly," and then to remove the "main body ECU." That should make it easier to get to the adjustment points. Looks like a 12,13, or 14 mm hex on the pedal height bolt and lock nut. I checked the lock nut for the pushrod, 12mm. While loosening this lock nut, I think it may be necessary to hold the flats on the clevis, with a 14 mm wrench, to prevent the clevis from turning, and breaking, where it attaches to the pedal with the hole pin.

I can attach pages from the *.pdf manual if necessary.

I have no idea how to remove the instrument panel parts. It looks different in the corolla manual, from what I have in my matrix, and I don't have a 2010 matrix manual. It looks like it would R&R might take a long time too, be rather complicated, and I'm afraid to let my dealer do anything this complicated, something that really should be easy. I wish this was a simply thing of being able to reach the lock nuts and bolt or locknut and pushrod, without having to remove the whole globblam dash, with all those fragile plastic clips. Removing the carpet to check the pedal height was hard enough! I was worried I'd break the plastic trim panels that have to be removed before can remove the carpet.

I suppose a dirty trick I could use would be to glue a shim to the top of the clutch pedal cushion that the clutch pedal stopper bolt rests against, when the cluch is all the way up. Slip it into place. This might be easier than trying to get wrenches in where they have to go, and turn them, in the very limited space that is available, if the dash is not removed.

Edited by nomenclator, 22 March 2012 - 01:36 PM.

[nomenclator]

Can't get a 14mm wrench on the locknut or adjustment bolt, for the clutch pedal height, without first removing the ecu. And I'm having trouble removing the main body ecu.

I removed the 3 screws that hold in the ecu, and all the cable connectors, from the rear (the side that faces the driver) but I still can't remove the ecu, or even move out of the way. Problem may be that there are wires physically attached to the back of the unit, and the sides. How to detach them seems to be the main problem I am having now.

Does anyone know exactly which panels need to be removed, before you can remove the ecu?

I've figured out how many of the dash panels come off. But some of the panels are held in with plastic friction tabs and screws. It is hard to tell which panels, and easy to end up breaking a panel, if one doesn't see the well-hidden screw, and keeps pulling.

I've figured out how to remove the the shift knob and the plastic panel under it, attached to the shift lever boot. However the bottom panel on the left that the hood release mechanism attaches to, the panel right under the main body ecu, seems to be held on with screws as well as friction tabs, and I haven't been able to get if off yet. Attached to this panel is the side panel on the left, and I am unable to remove this side panel. I am also unable to remove the panels that cover the sides of the shift lever.

I've removed the dash piece that covers the guage set. Just pulls right out. But does anyone know how to remove the whole upper dash panel, the upper most part that is one piece from all the way left to all the way right?

Edited by nomenclator, 01 April 2012 - 03:13 PM.