46 replies to this topic

[valmare]

I'm sure this has already been discussed but I searched and couldn’t find a good answer. I have already added a short ram air intake and flow master to my 04 XRS. I want to continue to increase HP but I am cheap as well. What’s the next best thing for the money? So far all I have spent on the 2 upgrades is $350.00

[thebam]

This has been covered countless times. But, the only mod that will give u real gains is FI.

I forgot who it was on here, but I think they got 215 on NA. With full bolts on

The intake and exhaust maybe gave u 5 HP.

[valmare]

FI?

[Roxtar]

forced induction. turbocharging, supercharging, or nitrous oxide injection.

[thebam]

There's a DIY turbo build in the how to section. Runs u about 2K

[Crazzyboy]

what flowmaster did you get?

[valmare]

Just the 40 series. And i'm not going with FI. Way too much $ for me. Guess i'll just keep nicle and dimming it over time with small mods.

[Salsa Guy]

You need to pay to play!

[Crazzyboy]

Ah I've been contemplating a 40 series. How does it sound? the only way to get signifigant power gains is with lotsa cash. Try poking around monkeywrenchracing.com for some ideas. Lightweight pulleys help a little. Super light wheels will also help are obviously money. Lightweight flywheel. These are probly the cheapest options comming to mind.

[kpace]

bro, get a whistle tip

it's got that wooo woooo

[Salsa Guy]

Remove the engine cover...that's 10 HP!

[valmare]

What about ignition box's/kits?

[Evilthorne]

No chips, engine block kits, grounding wires or other garbage. Save your money, if you want something buy light weight pulleys, or PnP your header.

[Roxtar]

you have coil-on-plug ignition. "ignition boxes" won't do anything. performance coil packs may gain you a couple of horses, but at $100 each, they aren't really worth it.

[CASH XRS]

1337trix, on 19 February 2012 - 07:24 PM, said:

bro, get a whistle tip

it's got that wooo woooo

hahahahaha. Or that "turbo sounding exahsut tip". O man the things that are out there lol.

Evilthorne, on 19 February 2012 - 07:48 PM, said:

No chips, engine block kits, grounding wires or other garbage. Save your money, if you want something buy light weight pulleys, or PnP your header.

How good of a job does a full pulley setup do? I've heard it helps and I've heard it makes your engine work harder?

[kpace]

pulleys can do a couple things

1st is remove weight, similar to performance gained when getting lighter wheels

2nd is you can get them in larger sizes which will underdrive the accessories(ligthen the workload)... so if you have a big a** stereo system you dont want to be getting an alternator pulley, but if you're a minimalist than you can afford to do that. Same goes with the waterpump pulley

Waterpump pulleys are built for normal road going, so they're at peak performance at mid RPM's for long highway driving.... however autocross or road racing causes the engine to rev higher, the pulley spins faster and you could get cavitation, meaning that the pump is spinning past its peak and is actually being less efficient than at a lower RPM(overheating)

so if you get a waterpump pulley, it can make the waterpump's peak effeciency at higher RPMs without hurting anything... hopefully i've explained it right


essentially - lots of ICE and aftermarket pulleys = lots of dumbass

Edited by 1337trix, 20 February 2012 - 10:04 AM.

[infuzeyou]

For a N/A build, I recommend starting with:
cold air intake
performance header
custom mid-pipe or prefab mandrel-bent cat-back
underdrive alt. pulley (if you're not running any heavy electrical items)
lightweight flywheel

those are pretty much the basics for N/A, anything more and you'll want to start thinking about aftermarket engine management systems and dyno tuning, which can get pricey quick.

Salsa Guy, on 19 February 2012 - 07:18 PM, said:

You need to pay to play!

^^this

By the time I finish my s/c build, I'll be around $7,000 just in engine performance parts and dyno tuning.

[CASH XRS]

1337trix, on 20 February 2012 - 10:03 AM, said:

pulleys can do a couple things

1st is remove weight, similar to performance gained when getting lighter wheels

2nd is you can get them in larger sizes which will underdrive the accessories(ligthen the workload)... so if you have a big a** stereo system you dont want to be getting an alternator pulley, but if you're a minimalist than you can afford to do that. Same goes with the waterpump pulley

Waterpump pulleys are built for normal road going, so they're at peak performance at mid RPM's for long highway driving.... however autocross or road racing causes the engine to rev higher, the pulley spins faster and you could get cavitation, meaning that the pump is spinning past its peak and is actually being less efficient than at a lower RPM(overheating)

so if you get a waterpump pulley, it can make the waterpump's peak effeciency at higher RPMs without hurting anything... hopefully i've explained it right


essentially - lots of ICE and aftermarket pulleys = lots of dumbass

haha, ok, well I will be putting in an aftermarket head unit soon and maybe upgrading the speakers and woofer eventually, but nothing insane. So I think I'd be OK with an alternator puller and the water pump pulley is definitely something I could do. I was thinking of going with both the alternator and water pump pulley. According to MWR you gain roughly 6-7 hp and 4 lb of tq, all you have to do is get a belt that is 2 inches longer. Worth the ~$200?

[valmare]

OK. Another question. The header on the 2zz is already an upgrade right? Can I get better?

[Crazzyboy]

valmare, on 20 February 2012 - 07:15 PM, said:

OK. Another question. The header on the 2zz is already an upgrade right? Can I get better?

The stock 2zz header is quite good to begin with. Your cheapest route is to port it. The gains from DC is debatable and PPE is a large wad of cash, but those who have it, swear by it