I put in stage 1 cams in my engine with a friend who is a mechanic and helped him put them in. It took like 3 hours, not including time that we needed to get a part. I can say that its not that bad but you really have to pay attention to detail and know what you are doing. you can screw up the timing or lose the chain into the engine. then you will have bigger problems. anyways here is the general idea:

1. Basically you take the valve cover off. stick a rod/pen in the first cylinder head and and adjust the crank until it rises to the highest point which is "top dead center." Mark the timing chain position to the cams. loosen the the timing chain tensioner, which is located in the back of the the engine north of the header. pop it off and recoil it so that it will discharge in place when putting it back in.

(IMG:http://i27.tinypic.com/22kz6v.jpg)

(IMG:http://i26.tinypic.com/2mn3dpc.jpg)

2. Grab the chain and tie it down so it won't fall down in the engine. Carefully, take out the half moon pieces along with the cams and place them in the same position so you won't forget exactly the way they go back in. Do not touch cams with finger tips on the smooth areas. lube the smooth surfaces and half moon parts on the cams and in the head.

(IMG:http://i29.tinypic.com/2z82m1z.jpg)

(IMG:http://i31.tinypic.com/vexj09.jpg)

3. Position the the cams with the notch that it comes with to line up. Bolt them in to place and "carefully torque them. I broke one on accident and had to go to the junkyard and pull a bolt out of a tercel head. put the chain in place where it was marked by you. put the tensioner back in and it should lock and discharge to tighten. lol put the new gasket in and cover in place and bolt everything up again.

(IMG:http://i25.tinypic.com/357gahd.jpg)

(IMG:http://i26.tinypic.com/70gyyr.jpg)

This is only for stage I cams. if you go any bigger like stage II, you need to remove the head so you can put bigger valve springs and retainers, which is a lot more work. if you want more info, ask Jcanracer. If you can't figure out what size ratchet or torque to use, then you probably shouldn't do this. I love my cams I feel like I got a little lift now lol. Stage I and II can run without a tune but its recommended to get full potential. if you have any questions on Stage II, ask Jcanracer. He has it on his car.

Hi MO.com, this is my first mod writeup! Difficulty: Easy. Time required: < 1 hr

Background:
This write up will describe in moderate detail how to add an auxiliary 3.5mm jack to your Panasonic headunit that
came with your Toyota Matrix TRD Edition. The model number of the HU is CQ-C5310U. It can play MP3/WMA CD's,
and also comes with an IR remote to control all the functions. Slick. But missing the AUX!

So when I picked up my TRD I thought to myself, how can I hook up my iPod? Looking on MO.com, I saw these options:
1) FM Modulator.
2) FM Transmitter.
3) Buying a new HU. (lol.)
In my searches on Google, I noticed on a webpage that this model
HU had an AUX input, but I wanted to confirm it wasn't contained in the radio harness somewhere.
I managed to find the manual for this Panasonic HU and....

http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/z...e_/AUXInput.jpg

Success! Let's begin.

Tools required:

1 x Panasonic CQ-C5310U.
1 x 10mm thin walled socket (1/4'' drive recommended)
1 x screw driver with 1/4'' drive or ratchet w/ extension.
1 x narrow blade utility knife or steak knife
1 x side cutters/good wire cutters
1 x glass of juice (I prefer myself some pomegranate and grape, that stuff is awesome)

Tie-wraps (I used 4'' with a bundle diameter of 1/16'' to 5/8'')

And...
1 x 3 ft RCA to 3.5mm cable. RCA plugs must be male, 3.5mm jack can be male or female.

(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00173.jpg)

I actually think this came with my computer speakers...I lucked out and found it in a drawer. As well, the male
end also eliminates the need for me to go out and buy a male to male cable.

Installation Steps

1) Remove dash/bezel radio surround. The easiest way to do this is to feel along the bottom of the bezel, right
above the HVAC controls. Pull gently toward the rear of the vehicle. Once the bottom
has popped free, run your fingers along the edges toward the top. The bezel will hinge at the top. Pull it away carefully.

2) Disconnect the 4 connectors for the clock, hazard button, defrost/AC and recirculate.

(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00167.jpg)

3) Remove the 4 of the 10mm screws using the tool of your choice. They are located at the top left, top right, bottom left
and bottom right. Be careful not to drop the bottom left screw. As well, the bottom right screw is in pretty deep (hence
the extension and thin wall socket)

(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00169.jpg)
(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00170.jpg)

Look to the rear of the unit. Thank you Toyota for not cutting off the AUX connection. You can see the
red and white RCA jacks nicely zip-tied away. Note which ones are which, one set will be for the Subwoofer and the other
for the AUX in. They are labeled. Remove the black plastic covers on the red and white connector on the AUX-IN cable.

4) Hook up your cable to the AUX connections. Be sure to match red to red, white to white, or else your left and right channels
will be switched. I tie wrapped the connector bodies against the cable they were against, and slid them over so they wouldn't
vibrate free. Cut off the leftover ends of the tie-wraps using your side cutters/wire cutters.

(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00175.jpg)
(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00178.jpg)

Now you ask, where the hell am I going to route this cable?! Well, if you are fancy, you can run it wherever you want. Cut a
hole in the dash, pop it out. Cut a hole in the side of the center console, poke it through. Hot-glue it to the dash, so it sticks
out like a out like a tree, so you can just stick your iPod onto to it.

I did it like this. Opening up the cubbyhole below the HVAC panel, I noticed a cutout "door" on the back left corner. What would this be for?

(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00180.jpg)

5) Take your knife and cut the little plastic standoffs holding this "door" in place. I only cut the top, bottom and right hand
standoffs and bent the plastic just enough to push the cable through. (I was paranoid about cutting something in the back so
I reached in the HU opening and kept my hand there to keep the knife from stabbing into anything, namely the cigarette lighter adapter wires.)

6) Route your cable behind the HU and drop it directly down, and pull it through the cubbyhole "door" opening. It may take some fiddling.

7) Re-install HU, being sure no cables are pinched and no connectors have been disconnected inadvertently. Push your AUX cable more towards the glove
box, with 3 feet of AUX cable, you have plenty of room for strain relief, so use it. Re-install the 4 screws. Don't over torque them, as they are screwing into plastic.

8) Holding your dash bezel, reconnect the 4 connectors from Step 2. When placing the bezel back into place, make sure no cables get pinched
on their way back in. Install the bezel top first, hooking in the hinges. Push it all around and into place.

(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00195.jpg)
(IMG:http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn453/zDiamonDEdGe_/Matrix%20AUX/DSC00196.jpg)

The AUX cable can be neatly folded away into the cubbyhole, and the door closed for the ultimate
clean install.

Pros:

• Cheap.
• Quick.
• Relatively clean, no drilling required.

Cons:

• Not truly strain relief'ed to my standards (I wired my university's FSAE car)
• Cubbyhole is now useless (but I never used it in the first place, good for storing the remote, even then it slides around in there)
• Cubbyhole door edges aren't too sharp - those really OCD would file it smooth so the cable doesn't fray.
• If the cable is pulled on too hard, it will totally yank itself out and possibly mess up the bundle of wires up top.
  I am currently thinking of a solution of where to zip tie it down to.

Comments, questions?

Thank you!

***NOTE***
use this as nothing more than a guidance to assist you in your install of the SSBC kit. i take no responsibilities for the out come (unless it works) or for anything that happens to you or your ride while following this incomplete unofficiall how to.

find a niece piece of flat land to park the trix, and make sure no one will bother you for a little while.
jack up the rear of the car however you are use to doing it, if this is your first time, there is a pyramid type thingy under neath the rear of the car right in front of the cross beam. place jack stands and remove your rims.

once your rims are off, your nasty lookin drums will be exposed. you will need two screws to remove the drum brake cover. if you dont have screws handy, we used the radiator support bolts up front and they worked perfectly.
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7089.jpg)
screw driver shows where the screws need to go

after the drum is off, the brake pads and all springs need to be removed. be carefull if you do not have the proper spring removing tools as these springs are under some tension and will go flying if removing with pliers and flathead screwdriver like was doing.
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7092.jpg)

should look like this after all the braking stuff is off..
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7093.jpg)

next, the hydraulic brake line will need to be removed from the back of the assembly..
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7094.jpg)

dont forget to remove parking brake cable from brakes. might need a pair of pliers to twist and pull cable.
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7080.jpg)

then unbolt the parking brake cable and pull out through the back..
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7093.jpg)

then there are four bolts securing the axle hub and brake backing plate to the axle that need to be removed.
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7095.jpg)

then be carefull not to pull too far out as the sensor needs to be unplugged.. might not apply to all
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7096.jpg)

seperate the backing plate from the hub and keep the hub as you will be reusing this
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7097.jpg)

at this point, this is what it should all look like if you've been following along correctly
(IMG:http://i651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/tytematrixrs/DSC_7098.jpg)

2003-2008 Performance Catback system for Matrix XR and Pontiac Vibe models

I have been working with a member on this forum for a while to come up with a performance catback system at a economical price but still produce a good sound and power. The system was finished a couple of weeks ago and the results are exactly as we expected, here are some of the details


Videos are posted on YouTube ;

interior

Interior

idle


Systems are in-stock and ready for shipping. When developing this system with a member on this board, i agreed to offer everyone here the following,

• Price will be $250 CND or $250US since the dollar is pretty much the same.
• I accept Visa or Mastercard, US customers will be charged in US funds, Canadian customers in CND with applicable taxes ( 13% for Ontario, 5% for other provinces). Customers can also pay by Paypal, but the price would be 5% more due to their fees, so $ 262
• As far as shipping is concerned, it is rather bulky so I would have to quote based on postal code.
• For the US, I can do a flat price of $55 as I have a special program with UPS.
• For Canada I could probably ship Canada Post also if people are interested. Of course, pickup from my warehouse is also allowed.

I can be reached at mufflerexpress@bellnet.ca for any questions or orders, thanks!

John

Bean Garage - Now dealing RAZO products! You can view all of their lineup at :
http://www.carmate-usa.com/index.htm

Let us know if there is anything you want from Razo that is not listed on our website.

RAZO has always had a full time R&D department dedicated to producing second to none motorsports gear. In an age when most people in the industry are only concerned with cutting corners and offering things that are mostly for aesthetic reasons, we still emphasize on functionality and manufacture all of our performance products in Japan. Our objective is simple: create top-quality performance products that are innovative and functional for our fellow motoring enthusiasts.

We have been actively involved in motorsports for more than 15 years, from the grassroots level to professional circuit. RAZO's presence could be seen from our championship winning Nissan Skyline GT-R in the prestigious N1 Endurance Series to our Nissan Silvia entry in the All Japan GT Championship (JGTC). As a matter of fact, Yoichi Imamura, the 2003 D1 Grand Prix Champion is a long time RAZO test/team driver.

At RAZO we value customer input and constantly review our products to ensure the highest quality. We also work closely with our test drivers both on and off the tracks in search of ways to improve. The result of their feedback can be felt directly through our lineup of shift knobs, sport pedals and other exciting products.
RAZO Performance Products...Insist On Only The Best!

Shift Knobs
Aluminum Round Shift Knob
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/images/RA25.jpg)
http://beangarage.com/catalog/interior/raz...olor-p-381.html

Inspired by European race cars and rally cars, this shift knob is bound to be a great unique upgrade to your interior. Comes in a beautiful Onyx black finish.

-Fits manual transmissions.
-Comes with a variety of inserts for a universal fit.
-Easy install. Twists right on to stock shifter column.
-Comes in two weights for a light or heavier shift feel - 140g or 340g.

$30 plus shipping.

Carbon + Dark Chrome Shift Knob
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/images/razo_ra66.jpg)
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...roducts_id=388l
RAZO offers this best-selling "Carbon + Dark Chrome" Series shift knob for manual transmissions. It is weighted at 400g for a solid shift feel for both street driving and track days. The dark chrome base with carbon fiber accents proves to be very attractive in any interior. It is designed with consistent weight to reduce miss shifts and improved shift feel. This premium JDM shift knob is a must have for car enthusiasts.

-RAZO quality from Japan.
-Universal fit.
-Includes instructions and all necessary hardware.

$52 plus shipping.

GT SPEC Leather/Chrome Shift Knob
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/images/razo_ra123.jpg)
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=380
RAZO brings us this "GT Spec" series NEW for this year. It has a JDM appeal to it, with real leather and chrome trim. You may also choose from two height positions that fit your needs. This is a great accessory that you use daily that spices up your interior.

Made in Japan, quality is bar-none!

-Comes in black leather with chrome trim. Ergonomic feel for the best shifting
-Fits on manual transmissions and gate-type automatic.
-Comes with 8, 10, and 12mm insert and instructions.
-Universal fit for most applications.
-Weighs 270g.

$55 plus shipping.

Performance Shift Knob - Leather or Suede
(IMG:http://www.beangarage.com/catalog/images/razo_RA104_1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.beangarage.com/catalog/images/razo_ra103.jpg)
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=379

RAZO brings us this leather or suede shift knob with an easy-grip surface for optimal feel. It is part of the "Performance Series" of shift knobs from RAZO, and is sporty yet elegent - a true compliment from sports cars to sedans. Includes adaptable skirt which can be removed for a low sitting shift knob.

-Universal fit for manual transmissions.
-All instructions and hardware included
-Comes with 8, 10, and 12mm insert to fit a variety of applications.
-Black suede or leather finish

$28 plus shipping.
Pedal Covers
Carbon Fiber Pedal Set
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/images/razo_rp105-1.jpg)
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=384
RAZO Japan offers these carbon fiber "GT SPEC" pedals in Small size that overlay your existing manual transmission pedals. These premium alloy base pedals are inspired by the JDM movement. Japanese GT car styling is mimicked here with its precise 3-D futuristic design. These are a universal fit and are a simple upgrade that is an inexpensive way to improve the look and feel of your drive.

The pedals feature:
-grip holes to prevent losing hold of the driving spirit.
-real carbon fiber accents.
-universal fit
-RAZO quality from Japan.
-covers brake, clutch, and accelerator pedals.
-mounted by brackets or by drilling in to existing unit.
-easy install, instructions and all hardware included.

$51 plus shipping.
Also available in automatic fitment:
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=383

Grip Sport Pedal Covers
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/images/razo_rp25.jpg)
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=385

RAZO Japan offers these aluminum "Grip Sport" pedals in universal fit to overlay your existing manual transmission pedals. They are premium lightweight pedals designed for the sporty ride. Offering a strong grip, it is a tasteful upgrade to your interior. Japanese GT car styling is mimicked here with its precise 3-D futuristic design. These are a universal fit and are a simple upgrade that is an inexpensive way to improve the look and feel of your drive.

The pedals feature:
-grip holes to prevent losing hold of the driving spirit.
-strong aluminum that is finely polished.
-universal fit
-RAZO quality from Japan.
-covers brake, clutch, and accelerator pedals.
-mounts with included bracket or by drilling in to existing unit.
-easy install, instructions and all hardware included.

$28 plus shipping.
Also available in automatic transmission fitment:
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=386

Wide Angle Rear View Mirror
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/images/razo_RG20.png)
http://beangarage.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=378
Wide Angle rear view clip-on mirror.

Wide Angle Rear View Mirrors
-Provides extensive vision that is not available with stock units
-Reduces night time glare by 45% and eliminates overlapped vision
-Conforms to European safety standard which prevents sharp particles from flying off when shattered
-Stylish and clean design brightens up the interior of your vehicle

These are available in the following models:
Flat Type
RG20 (270mm/10.6in) Black Frame
RG22 (300mm/11.8in) Black Frame

Convex Type
RG21 (270mm/10.6in) Black Frame
RG23 (300mm/11.8in) Black Frame

$18 plus shipping.



As always, let me know if you have any questions!

These items are in stock, ready to ship.

Payment can be made through the website, or directly to sales @ beangarage.com

Thank you,
Spencer

These are an inexpensive, comfortable, high-quality upgrade for your seats. They are made specifically for your vehicle and are tight-fitting. Included are:
-Front Seat Covers
-Head Rest Covers
-Rear Seat Covers
-Arm Rest Covers (if applicable)



Clazzio Seat Covers come in 3 different kinds of material: breathable perforated leather, suede, and soft PVC. Up to 15 mm of memory foam is inserted in to the seat cushion to provide a comfortable ride for anyone riding in your car.

-The front seats include a useful rear pocket.
-Memory Foam inserted in to cover material
-Easy installation, great end product.
-Tested to work with side airbags


The outer part of the seat comes in PVC, whereas the inner part is customizable in different materials including:
-Perforated Leather
-Suede
-PVC

Each order comes with full installation instructions for a DIY project.

Toyota Matrix Clazzio Seat Covers

Currently, Clazzio only offers seat covers for Toyota Matrix 03-08 (both regular and XR/XRS models)
Please specify if you are looking for seat covers for height adjustable models.

In stock seat covers for Matrix 03-08:
LEATHER INSERT: Black outer/black insert/black stitching

Some pictures:
Leather (all black) insert on Toyota Matrix:
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/images/L2051K-F.JPG)

08 Scion xB all black leather insert:
(IMG:http://www.beangarage.com/catalog/clazzio/08XBleather-F.jpg)

Scion tC
Outer: Black
Insert: Red leather
Stitching: Red
(IMG:http://www.beangarage.com/catalog/clazzio/TCredinsert-F.jpg)

Scion tC
Outer: Black
Insert: Black leather
Stitching: Red
(IMG:http://www.beangarage.com/catalog/clazzio/TCredstitch-F.jpg)

Scion xD
Outer: Black
Insert: Black Suede
Stitching: Orange
(IMG:http://www.beangarage.com/catalog/clazzio/XDsuedeorange-F.jpg)


Custom Orders can be made for delivery in 8-10 weeks.
Colors can be ordered in any of the varieties in the charts below:
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/clazzio/PVC_xb_spec.jpg)
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/clazzio/suede_xb_spec.jpg)
(IMG:http://beangarage.com/catalog/clazzio/leather_xb_spec.jpg)

A Very effective, low cost and easy way to significantly reduce the cabin noise and drone from the exhaust...

Cost: 30$ or less
Difficulty: easy
Time required: 30 - 45 min.

What you will need:
- Fiberglass or mineral wall insulation (a quarter of a pack you be enough..) I used R22, 5 1/2" thick mineral insulation.
- Foam Pipe insulation, about 20" long...
- A retractable blade knife
- Ratchet with 10mm socket
- flat screw driver
- long nose pliers


Steps:

- Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the spare tire compartment cover, remove cover.
- Remove black storage bin, relocate jack in the smaller storage compartment, just behind the rear seats...
- Remove rear trim: remove the two plastic clip with flat screw driver and long nose pliers
- Remove 4 10mm bolts on each side holding the side trims
- Unclip side trim starting at the back, you don't need to completely remove the trim, just enough that you can stuff the insulation behind the trim...
- Stuff insulation behind the trim using different size blocks of insulation the fill the empty cavities...
- Cut the pipe insulation in half, lengthwise... Install under the "feet" the the side trims
- Reinstall trims.
- Fill spare compartment with insulation.
- Reinstall cover.
- test drive, enjoy!

(IMG:http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/technick007/Soundproof/Roxul.jpg)

(IMG:http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/technick007/Soundproof/Pipeinsulation.jpg)

(IMG:http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/technick007/Soundproof/IMG_0576.jpg)

(IMG:http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/technick007/Soundproof/IMG_0577.jpg)

(IMG:http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/technick007/Soundproof/IMG_0578.jpg)

Hi fellow MOs. This thread (my first DIY) shows you how to remove/change your Cabin Filter on your 2nd Gen Trix. I realized some people don't know that it exists lol. sigh*

Step 1:

Buy a filter. I didn't buy one yet because Part Source was out of stock and plus my filter is clean. Here's a link incase you wanna order it online (I don't like ordering stuff online because my postman here is irresponsible and I've already lost a parcel (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) )

Filter Link

Step 2:

Locate your glove compartment and open it. Incase you don't know what that is, here's a picture.

(IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image044-1.jpg)

Step 3:

Locate the 2 "studs" that block the door from falling into your foot. Pull these "studs" out and let the door drop so you can access the filter hatch. Here are two pics of the "studs" that I'm referring to. A little force is required but not too much or you risk cracking the plastic (as that happened with my old Cobalt lol)

Left stud: (IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image045-1.jpg)
Right Stud: (IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image046.jpg)

Once the door drops, you'll have full access to the cabin and it should look something like this:
(IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image047-1.jpg)

A word of advice: Be careful of letting the door drop fully because the hinges and this hydraulic thingy might fall out and then you'll have to reposition everything so that the door can close properly. I learned that the hard way and getting the hinges to fall back in its proper place was a PITA.

(IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image052.jpg)

Step 4:

Once you have full access, locate a horizontal plastic cover that covers the air filter. To remove this, there is a clip that you press and it'll pop off (sorta like what you do to replace the batteries in your TV remote control.

(IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image049-1.jpg)

Step 5:

Once the cover is removed, just pull out the filter and replace it with a new one.

(IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image050-1.jpg)

Make sure when you put the new filter in that it is in the right direction. It'll indicate on the filter which way should be facing up.

(IMG:http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv10/Witman1/DIY%20Cabin%20Filter/Image051-1.jpg)

Hehe i lied, the filter's dirty LOL. I'm gonna get asthma (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Once replaced, just put everything back together in reverse order. Happy breathing!

*(I take no responsibility should you break something due to your clumsiness (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) )*
Sorry for flooding with pics.. i tried direct hyperlinking but i got an error :S
K wtf.. I clicked post but it didn't show... =.= So sorry if this is a repeat.

The database and files have been moved to the new server. Let me know if you have any issues.

ok i had a few p.ms about this so basically the steps are identical up until you connect the hose onto the intake...the intake (if designed for the 03-04) will come with a hose thats too tin so you win need to go buy a hose 5/8ths of an inch thick. conect the hose to the engine like the original one but you will not connect the other end to the intake. and attach a breather filter to the end of it.

(IMG:http://i43.tinypic.com/2guz6gj.jpg)

heres how mine looks, obviously not perfect buit it gets the job done (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

heres a shot of the hose and breather filter
(IMG:http://i40.tinypic.com/2epnkb9.jpg)

the intak will have a small extension where the hose is suppose to connect but isnt necessary so you can just cap that of with a cap
(IMG:http://i42.tinypic.com/2198efc.jpg)
(IMG:http://i43.tinypic.com/2guz6gj.jpg)

i for got the exact size of the cap but they should have a variety pack that will actually be cheaper than if you get all the caps one size
i know this might not be so esay to understand but if you have questions pm me and ill try and help you out some more =p


so in addition to the intake you will need:
breather filter: roughly $5.00
5/8" hose: $4.00
and cap: variety pack was 2.99 when i bought it

hope this helped the people who needed help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I've added some code to the site that enables us to embed youtube videos.

to embed a video, use the following syntax
"youtube"video id"/youtube"
using the square brackets rather than the quotes.

the video id can be determined by looking at the youtube video.
example, if you want to embed the video at this URL:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F04DBlnLUo

then you'd put
4F04DBlnLUo
between the tags.

the result is this

Dealer forgot to put reserve on a new Challenger... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/ne...ls-29-1k-34598/

Alright before I get started I want to mention that all credit goes to Dearthpika. He's the one who walked me through this so I'm just putting up so everyone else can have an easier time and I've noticed a lot of the new guys on the site have been asking about this mod a lot lately so here it goes.

Here is what you need:

[1] Fog lights
[2] OEM Relay (Part # - 90080-87010) - Avoid going to the dealership for this part. I was quoted $119 plus taxes. I search the part number on eBay and found it for $10.
[3] Fuse - 15 (Light Blue Color) - You should have a spare one in your fuse box. It only costs a couple bucks if you don't have the spare
[4] Electrical Tape
[5] Screw Driver
[6] Extra wiring (optional)

Steps:

1. First install the fog lights into the bumper (slides right in and you tighten it) and connect the connectors provided for the fogs (you will see them once you take off the front bumper) - If you need help removing your front bumper search the how-to section.

2. Pop your hood open and install the Relay and Fuse. The relay should be installed in the top right corner and the fuse should be installed beside it. Refer to the inside of the fuse lid, a map of all the fuse/relay positions is provided.

3. Now you're going to need to open up your steering wheel column (all the wiring is under your steering wheel). There are three screws in order to take the plastic cover off the bottom of the steering wheel. There are two screws right behind the steering wheel so you're going to have to move the steering wheel to one side in order to take the screw off. You're last screw is under the steering wheel. Once you’re done unscrewing the screws pop off the plastic piece gently.

4. Now that the plastic piece is off you're going to find the wiring harness that is attached to your headlight switch. Unclip the harness so that you can start re-wiring.

5. You are going to need to cut two wires and connect them while they both stay connected to the harness. You may need to extend the wires with extra wiring in order to do so or it may be easier for you this way. The first wire you need to cut is the green/orange wire. As you may have noticed there are two of them but you need to cut the one on the far left. Strip the wire and prepare it to be connected and if you want extend one end to make it easier.

6. The second wire you are going to deal with is the red/yellow stripe wire. Cut this wire and prepare it as well. Once you are done doing that connect the green/orange wire to the red/yellow wire and tape them together to ensure that they stay that way.

7. Connect the wiring harness back.

8. Bolt the steering wheel column back.

9. Turn on your headlights and your fogs will turn on as well.

Hope this tutorial helped! I will be posting up pictures shortly to make it easier and to make sure no one makes any mistakes with the wiring! Good luck and if any has any questions i will do my best to help.

Due to lower server prices, I can get a faster server with more memory for much less than what I am paying now.

I have ordered a new server and will be moving MO once the new server is prepared. This should happen within the next few days and downtime should be minimal.

People do not need to be afraid to install an inner grill block. It was easier than I thought to remove what I needed. A 10mm socket for five fasteners of the top grill, two fasteners of the bottom grill, a small flat screwdriver handy to unclip the clips holding the lower grill on, and 10 minutes...

 stock_grill_removed.JPG ( 52.46K ) Number of downloads: 189


If I had car ramps and a creeper handy, (or a very small head) the removal would have been a 5 minute job.

It seems ppl here have many opinions as to what should be blocked, what should be left open and what is the best shape for the openings, and each has their own logic as to why they favor what they favor. So I am not sure anyone wants to hear my reasoning since I am as qualified as the next guy to opine. That said... ;-)

I want to block the upper grill more because the air flow there seems to have other good options, so the upper grill is about 75% blocked. The lower grill I wanted to block less because I dont want to have excessive air going under the car creating unnecessary drag and lift. The lower grill is 50% blocked.

coroplast cut to fit. This pic is of the back side of the grills. You can see I left one of the four horizontal slits open in the top grill. It looks like I blocked some of the Toyota badge but I did not. Now for the paint...

 back_of_grills_w_trimmed_blocking_material.JPG ( 53.04K ) Number of downloads: 139


coroplast being affixed. If your eyesight is bad, yes their are three C-clamps in the picture.

 attaching_blocking_material.JPG ( 56.2K ) Number of downloads: 170


The lower grill coroplast is held by a wire tie and two screws. Sorry, Im out of black ties. The upper blocks are more permanently installed with adhesive. If the adhesive actually survives the car wash I will share more about what I did but I dont want to babel on about a 'solution' that may not work.

The weather is poor out so finished pics will be available when... evbrrrr, for now my grill is in the tub. I do not have assess to a scanguage so I will not be able to post any meaningful MPG numbers. It shouldnt hurt.

Anyone know if this may be too much blockage for 95 degree summer heat? I left the lower block easy to remove in case.

Thanks for the MPG tips guys. This is the last mod for me for awhile tho I do want to add a woofer under the passenger seat sometime.